Berberè

Posted on October 22, 2019November 11, 2019 by

Berberè pizzeria sits on a corner where wide, popular streets meet, as opposed to the narrow, more intimate alleyways that are stereotypical of the U.S.’s idea of Italy. With floor to ceiling windows taking up most of the front, passerby are allowed to see into the space. Painted white concrete walls, stylish wooden accents, and modern light fixtures let you know that it’s a rather new restaurant, but the warm and happy atmosphere carries even through the glass to anyone outside, drawing them in. From such an inviting look to the immediately welcoming waitress, I knew I would enjoy my experience. The place was packed when I went at peak dinner hour, full of laughter between groups of friends, old and young, and couples sharing meals. The couple nearest my roommate and I’s table even had their dog with them, weaving through their legs and begging for food. A great playlist came over the speakers from a sound system near my table, a mix of music from different genres and countries, just like the diverse customers. The service was as amazing as the food.

Pizza with pork sausage, tomato, parmigiano reggiano aged 24 months, and fennel seeds, and a can of soda made from real cola seeds.

Almost every restaurant in Italy has pizza, what makes this place special?

So right away I loved the menu. It’s great for English speaking travelers because it’s all in both English and Italian for native speakers (or anyone learning!) They have a great selection of pizza, with some really interesting options, among a few salads and other dishes. On the back of the menu they explain where they get all of their ingredients because they’re dedicated to making real food. They use organic ingredients whenever possible, “since organic is the only method of agriculture capable of preserving the earth for future generations. About 85% of the products we buy are certified organic. Some products aren’t, but they come from farmers and breeders who share our artisanal philosophy.” Their mission statement listed on their website explains it best.

“Berberè’ was born in 2010 with the mission of serving delicious artisanal pizza, made only with living sourdough, digestible and without frills, in a welcoming atmosphere. We work with organic ingredients, and our only gospel is quality.”

Cranberry Sorbetto and whipped cream, made with water, fruit, and just a bit of sugar (4.50) Sachertorte, a cocoa sponge cake with apricot jam and whipped cream (6.50)

Eating out can get expensive, how much money would I be spending here?

This isn’t the cheapest option for pizza, but for the quality and the amount you get, I think it’s definitely more than worth it. You could spend four euros on one personal slice from many of the cafes around, or you could spend ten euros for eight slices, perfect to take home as leftovers for another meal! They also have a short list of artisanal desserts made by master pastry chef Luigi Biasetto. The desserts range from four to six euros. (That’s about the price most gelato shops charge.) They also have a great selection of very affordable wines to pair with your food, with coffee, juice, or soda for the non-drinkers!

Website:

https://www.berberepizza.it/en

When can I go?

Monday – Sunday 12-3 PM, 7-11:30 PM

Where is it?

Located at Via dei Benci, 7, just over the bridge. It’s easily accessible from all areas in the city center, but not near enough the Duomo and other major tourist areas to be overrun or unnecessarily overpriced. (They have thirteen other locations too!)

BULLI & BALENE – Spritz e Cicchetti

Posted on October 22, 2019November 12, 2019 by simmonds

Head towards “pussy alley”

An Italian Side Street with vespas — The so-called “Pussy Alley” on the corner where Bulli and Balene is located.

Every night on pussy alley there is a huge aperitivo in the streets. Beautiful Italians drinking wine while their voices carry far out onto the neighboring plaza. It is a social party full of locals, but not the type of party an American can attend. I had tried to be apart of the atmosphere, but I do not speak Italian so I could only observe the party from afar. My friends and I had a shared feeling of being left out, but we could not stop coming to Bulli and Balene. Pussy alley was captivating, we wanted a taste of the local Italian culture.

Best for:

Chalkboard Spritz Menu — The best local bar in Florence!

Those that are not drinking to get drunk, rather those who want to casually sip on some snazzy cocktails and munch on a couple of light snacks. Probably one of the main reasons Americans cannot fully be apart of the Italian experience outside of Bulli and Balene is because of the drunk American tourist stereotypes. So do yourself a favor and take care of yourself because we do not need you to get sloppy just to reinforce that. I recommend going either before or after dinner to sit and chat with friends when you want to trade in an evening filled with tourists for a flair of local culture. It is far from the crowds of the Duomo- a secret spot to see the magical art of the true Italian aperitivo.

Highlights: The Hugo Spritz and Their Cicchetti Sandwiches

Close up picture of glasses of wine, one cocktail, and one cocktail — Drinks on drinks on drinks! Two glasses of wine, one Hugo spritz, and one ginger beer.

If you are lucky enough to go into Bulli and Balene with an open mind you should try the star of the show- the hugo. This spritz is classified by me as their signature drink. Do not get me wrong, there are plenty of drinks to choose from- they have a large beer and wine list and they put funky twits on classics, but Bulli and Balene is known for their spritz’s. Trust me if you do not get one you are missing out big time! The Hugo is a mint and lime spritz that is super fresh and crisp. The drink has a hint of sweetness from the prosecco, but it is not overpowering because it is balanced out by the bitterness from the lime and coolness from the mint. The hugo is the best spritz I have ever had, and this is coming from a girl who does not like mojitos that much!

For the other half of the show you should try a cicchetti sandwich. Whenever you go to Bulli and Balene you will see customers walking with black trays full of little cicchetti sandwiches. The cristini like sandwiches which are one one of the main features of the bar are made fresh daily based on which ingredients are available in local markets. If you go there one day, and go back the next you may not see your favorite from yesterday because their cicchetti menu changes everyday!

Get off your phone!

Wall of plants — The picturesque plant wall!

Once you get your drinks that come in vintage looking crystal glasses, or see the eloquently hand decorated hummus cristinis that look great against the plant wall you will be tempted to whip out your phone. Here is my challenge for you to not do that. I had to go back to Bulli and Balene multiple times and get photos that my friends took to post to this blog because I did not have any the first time I went. You would never see a local posting pictures to their instagrams of their aperitivos so if it is your goal to be less touristy skip the posting.

If I cannot use my phone, what should I expect?

Griping food, drinks, and conversations. The only time I find it acceptable to use your phone is when you need it for google translate because the menu is strictly written in all Italian (do not worry if you really need it there is free wifi). The place is also packed with mainly locals- you may find a couple of younger study abroad students, but expect the crowd to be young to middle aged Italians. Be prepared for those sometimes awkward interactions in regard to the language barrier.

You have made it to the end so now you can know the truth!

Bulli and Balene is on a side street called “pussy alley” because of a silver cat with piercing blue eyes that sits outside the restaurant. I knew the cat well before I knew the name of the street and I did not realize the name until I grabbed their business card on the second time I went to the bar!

Cat sleeping on top of a vespa — Bulli and Balene’s mascot- a stray cat

By: Grace Nichols

Where can I find it?

Via dello Sprone, 14, 50125 Firenze FI

A Walk in the Woods

Posted on October 17, 2019November 2, 2019 by Joseph Kelly

Has the “din of town and city” worn you down?

motor scooters in Florence — Don’t get run over!

You walk every day down those narrow streets, and from both sides the rusticated, eighty-foot prison walls of Medicean Renaissance lean in on you, iron rings and iron bars and iron-hinged wooden doors. The pulsating beep of taxis, the rumbling echo of the garbage truck lifting its cube of steel out of the stone street, and oh god the people! The smart-dressed woman, stick and pennant held aloft, leading a bus load of gawkers who snake off and on the curb behind her. People on the narrow strips of sidewalk staring at their phones and walking slower than you. People smoking in clusters in the trattoria doorway. Garish tee shirts and shorts sit on the steps and pant in the shade of San Lorenzo. Mopeds swooping like squadrons of birds in that old video game, Galaga, and you with one life left!

The “din and town and city” have chased out peace, and you thirst for “that serene and blessed mood,

William Wordsworth plagued by the all weary weight of this unintelligible world

In which the affections gently lead us on,—

Until, the breath of this corporeal frame

And even the motion of our human blood

Almost suspended, we are laid asleep

In body, and become a living soul[.]

Well, OK, William Wordsworth might have laid it on a bit thick. But if you just want to get away to someplace where your feet aren’t aren’t sore from standing on paving stones and where the shade takes the mottled shape of leaves and not the straight lines of palazzo roofs, then you all you’ve got to do is . . .

. . . take the #7 Bus to Fiesole

Piazza Mino da Fiesole: it’s quiet in sound and sight, and you start to notice little things.

You’ll find it on the north face of the Stazione (S.M.N.), and in ten minutes you’re winding your way to heaven. Up you go, like Dante ascending Mount Purgatory. Gradually, the city sinks. Buildings shrink from the street. Green lawns spread out. You’ve still got the red-tiled roofs, but the towers now are trees. The soul is waking up. It’s emerging from the heavy blankets of city life.

In thirty minutes, the bus lets you off on a little hill-top piazza, neat and swank. You’re not entirely free of tourists–among the few other people dotting the square were an American couple older even than me. But it’s . . . quiet.

We had a leisurely lunch of the best pasta I’ve eaten in Italy–pici in a simple cream sauce–at the Bistrot al N.5. I swear my tastebuds seemed keener, like my tongue could feel the pleasant sting of each particle of pepper. The senses were waking, noticing small things.

Knowing that a strenuous hike lay ahead, we resisted the temptation of cool white wine. But that American couple, which had sat at the next table, ordered a second bottle as they decided to spend another hour on the square.

A quick espresso shot lifted us from lunch and sent us climbing up a narrow road for about a hundred yards. As we passed the last house on the right, it felt like a curtain opening on a stage: Florence. The photo doesn’t do justice: you feel like you’re perched on eagle’s aerie. If you look close, you can see the Duomo on the left. The sounds of traffic drift up on the thermals, the police sirens and the car horns and the distant drone of ten thousand mopeds.

Hike Monte Cecini — The shaded hike round Monte Cecini

You plunge into the woods. The sounds of the city fade further. Vespas buzz about as loud as the hum of a few bees in the wild flowers.

Back in the day it wasn’t silent here. Hammer and spike chipped away at the mountain, and your walk brings you past stern VIETATO! signs warning you away from the dormant quarries. The man-made caves are overgrown and silent now: great yawning mouths of quiet.

The hike is not strenuous, and it’s pretty well-marked. Take your time. Bring some water. Bring a bar of dark chocolate and an orange so you can sit on the low wall of an olive orchard. Relax.

Are the views worth the hike?

You keep Monte Cecini always on your left, rounding its shoulder, until you notice Florence is gone all together. You’re in the woods. You might as well be a hundred miles from town. That’s when the best views come. You find yourself in one of those ten thousand mini-valleys that make Tuscany so famous. This is what it looks like.

olive grove — Hidden valley: where’d Florence go?

The scene is more serene than sublime. You are not struck by awe. But you are happy. You are content. You hear the sound of your own footfall on the pine-straw track or on the gravel. You hear birds. The breeze that stirs the branches and carries the warm scent of autumn from the olive groves whispers in your ear: Forget the city. Listen to me. Look at the colors of things.

You pass one village too small for a store but not too small for its own chapel and dome. You contemplate the blue sky, the rusty terracotta tile, the ochre stucco, the gray stone, and the livid red of dying leaves. Five colors. Beauty.

The last mile is harder. Parts seem like you’re climbing down the dry bed of a mountain creek. Even that stretch has its comforts. You catch glimpses of your destination, the town of Settignano, cradled in the slopes of Tuscan hills.

After maybe three hours, you make it into town. The main square is small, with a cafe and not much more, but there’s a bus stop, and you can step on the #10. Twenty minutes brings you’re back in the heart of the metropolis, the hustle and bustle, but you’re soul is OK. You’re restored.

Website

If you want to hike from Fiesole to Settignano, I highly recommend you consult this website. I don’t know why it’s called “Art in Tuscany” when the website has an extensive “Walking in Tuscany” page. I guess it’s a mistake. But we found the directions were incredibly accurate. Only in one place did we almost get lost–which is pretty darn good for trekking in the woods.

When can I go?

You’ll want to finish your hike at Settignano in daylight, which means leave Firenze no later than 4 hours before sunset.

Where is it?

You can pick up the #7 (towards Fiesole) right near the Stazione Santa Maria Novella–look at the pin below.

Black Beauty: The Natural Hair Savior of Florence

Posted on October 17, 2019November 12, 2019 by Ayla White

I was going through my typical morning routine; I showered, moisturized my face with aloe vera and lotion, then I moved to my hair. My Cantu Curl Activator bottle felt light in my hand. My heart sunk. Suddenly, as if I had a vision of the future, I visualized myself walking through the streets of Florence with unmanageably dry, frizzy hair. My curl cream was the most important part of my hair styling process. I still had two months left in Italy, so how could I enjoy my stay if I wasn’t happy with my appearance? That may sound conceited, but being unhappy with an important aspect of your appearance can alter your whole mood. I began to panic. I realized I should have brought extra bottles of hair products, but this thought was about a month too late.

During one of our many pre-departure meetings for my study abroad program, we were blatantly told us to leave our hair products at home. They reassured the room full of girls with straight hair that they would find a similar, if not the same, hair products in Italy. I immediately winced and rolled my eyes.

This assumption was directed towards a vastly white group of people without any regard to people of different colors or hair textures. There was no information geared towards people of different colors within the endless amount of handouts we received; all of the information was very generalized and exclusive to people with 1-2 hair types. I was left feeling anxious about what I should bring since there was no discussion or information for someone like me within my study abroad program.

Would I actually find products for my curly hair in Italy? Would it be easy to find? Would there be a natural hair section specifically geared towards 3-4 hair types like they do in stores in America? Would it be silly to pack multiple of all my hair products? Luckily for you, I have all the information you need to know about what to do and where to look.

Why is traveling with curly hair difficult?

Maintaining natural hair can be difficult. It requires a lot of time to manage, wash, and style. Frequent wash-and-goes are not always an option for all curly hair types, nor is it healthy for every hair type. It is important to understand that as someone with 3-4 hair type traveling to popular European destinations, it will be difficult to find hair salons or hair products that cater to your hair type. Take the steps to avoid having issues with your hair, such as sticking with a protective style, or finding ways to maintain your hair without using up most of your luggage space. But, if you have to bring a lot of products,

it is better to be safe than sorry. It is important to bring the essentials. Moisturizer, gel, and curl cream are my must haves. What are yours?

Precautions made don’t always work out.

Despite taking the steps to buy extra containers for styling and keeping my curls happy and moisturized, it was not until a few weeks into my stay in Florence that I realized I was going to run out of product within the next month. I began to frantically search for black/natural hair stores or salons in the area, because unlike in The States, there are not specific sections within local grocery stores designated for hair types past straight and wavy hair. Do not expect to easily find natural hair products in the typical hair stores or grocery stores around town. You’ll have to do some research.

Even before I knew I was going to run out of hair product, I began looking around Florence, out of pure curiosity, for natural hair stores, or even curly hair products within grocery stores. I came across many hair product stores, salons, and grocery stores that carry a vast variety of products for 1-2 hair types. I knew I probably wouldn’t be able to find Cantu or Shea Moisturizer, but I at least expected to see hair mousse, a possible emergency product I could use for my 3C hair. I didn’t. I seemingly had no options for what I could use for my curls.

Don’t be disheartened. Do research.

Realizing that my options were virtually nothing, I tried to do some research. Googling “black hair salons in Florence” can be a bit misleading. The first pictures to come up are of white Italian women with box-braids. I laughed out loud.

In The States, it’s a common reaction for African-Americans, or anyone with any knowledge of black protective styles, to immediately cringe when seeing a white person wear box-braids. Not only are there cultural issues surrounding the topic, but protective black hairstyles are very damaging to 1-2 type hair patterns. I immediately believed that these salons would not have what I was looking for.

I slowly continued my research within a span of a week or two, never finding anything useful. I looked up the prices of my hair products on Amazon and saw that I would be paying double the price if I were to order it online. Also, receiving something in the mail has been a rather unpredictable experience for me. One package took a month to arrive while another arrived in less than 24 hours; needless to say, it was a little too risky for me. I shied away from that option. Still, at this point, I had zero options for what I could put in my hair.

Let curiosity lead you.

On my way back to my apartment from class, I passed a storefront that was decorated with colorful Afros that sat on top of black mannequin heads. This display made me backtrack to peer into the windows of the store. This sight was pretty unusual within Florence. Black Beauty was printed boldly on the side of the building, and part of me thought it was some poor joke, especially after only seeing white women with box-braids through my google searches as well as the handfuls of white girls and middle aged Italian women that proudly wore this protective hairstyle. Also, the only people I saw wear Afro wigs in Italy were Italians.

As I perused the various wigs from outside the store, my eyes suddenly landed on familiar bright orange that my favorite hair product was packaged in. I nearly screamed with joy. There, sitting on one of the various shelves crammed with hair products, was Cantu. Without thinking twice, I ran inside the salon. There were only about four Cantu products offered, which were obviously bought in bulk and shipped from The States. Thankfully, the salon carried my most precious cream that was the crown during my daily hair ritual. At this point, I was on the brink of almost finishing my last bottle. It was exactly what I have been needing.

What type of products does Black Beauty have?

I noticed that there were many hair product options that were lined all around the store. Most of the products were unfamiliar brands that were seemingly shipped from different places of the world. From perm creams, to natural hair products, and hair dyes, Black Beauty carries various product options for those with type 3 and 4 hair. If you are unsure of what products you need, come prepared with your questions written or typed out in Italian so that the salon owner can help you the best she can. Although she is not fluent in English, she is very kind and willing to help!

Who does Black Beauty cater to?

Black Beauty caters to everyone. Customers include both locals and tourists of all colors, though her main customer type are college students, particularly students studying abroad. Do not be afraid to try new hairstyles you have been wanting to try, the hairstylists are very helpful and ready to discover what may work best for you. But please do research on new hairstyles you have never tried before. Depending on your hair type, certain styles can be damaging and painful.

What services are offered?

Box-braids, dread-locking, sew-ins, extensions, haircuts, and wig styling. Various different types of wings and extensions are carried within the store.

What are the prices?

The prices are relatively similar to the prices one would find in The States. It will be around 80-100 euros depending on how many braids or dreads you would like and what their length is. Extensions/ sew-ins begin at 100 euros and can go up to 200 or more, also depending on the amount of extensions and their length. Communicating with the salon owner is the best way to understand what your true price will end up being, considering that she offers so many services.

Travel with confidence.

Maintaining any hair type can be difficult. If your hair isn’t to your liking, it can be upsetting, causing you to become a little bit more self-conscious. Since study abroad programs lack information for 3-4 hair types, it may be confusing or even difficult to know what’s best for you. Finding a shop that carries you hair products may be hard while traveling, but Black Beauty is the store to go to if you cannot find anything for your curly hair. Need your dreads re-twisted? Unhappy with your natural haircut? Are you craving to have braids to avoid constantly styling your curls? Black Beauty has your back so you don’t have to travel feeling any less confident than you should.

Location and Contact Information

Address: Via de’ Ginori, 44/R, 50123 Firenze FI

Number: 055 289408

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday from 10 AM- 7 PM

Caffè Rainer

Posted on October 17, 2019November 8, 2019 by sommercr

I walk into this tiny café and see do-gooders.

What is Caffè Rainer?

The coffee shop is a reminder of my petite hometown in South Carolina. It’s simple. Slow-paced. Warm and familiar. There are shelves on the wall filled with books—give one, take one, kind of deal. There’s family history sharing the same space: the owner’s coffee grinder from her grandfather. An old menu. Copper pots on the wall are from Sylvia’s home in Padua. A black and white photo of her and her lively husband. They are happy, laughing and cherishing the moment between two wonderful souls.

A true treasure of a coffee and pastry shop near where classes are held is the spot to be. Put together by husband and wife, Rudolf and Sylvia give their unique lives to make this cafè a safe place for anyone traveling through, or the common study abroad student such as myself!

Foodie, are you?

My stomach roars like Simba while walking to this café. Probably because it knows where I am headed and can taste the delectable, fluffy pastries. Rudolf wakes each morning just before the sun rises and starts working on his treasures. The sweet pair is reflected by the patisseries made. A good croissant is chewy without being tough, and when you break open that flaky top, your nose is embraced by butter-land! There’s also cakes, biscotti, chocolates, and savory sandwiches. All of which is greatly troublesome to say no to. I often don’t!

Why does this place feel comfortable?

I always like to walk up to the counter, smiling graciously at the barista and say good morning in my best Italian accent (which isn’t all that great) and ask for a cappuccino and an almond croissant. I take my sweet pastry and take a seat in the corner and set up my computer or notebook to get to work. I cherish this time. In the states, you are expected to sit and work while you drink your coffee. In Italy, it is expected to stand at the counter and drink your coffee before being on your way. This place allowed me to stay and tend to my schoolwork without getting strange glances. It is a safe place for me to do what needs to be done without having to worry about offending the culture… or embarrassing myself!

This caffè is a warm and welcoming place to be. It is reliable and pleasant. The owners are constantly moving around each other in a dance of tango. Soft smiles, small touches, and an overwhelming sense of love. It is absolutely cherishable to be in the room that emits a charming glow of affection. It feels like a toasted marshmallow melting over creamy chocolate–everything sweet and good. The desire to be here, more than to eat or drink, but to feel those admirable moments is sumptuous in itself.

Who is the coffeemaker?

The person that works that magical, shiny espresso machine is a lovely Italian woman. She is patient. She is funny. She is hard-working. Every time I go into Caffé Rainer, I ask about all the pastries and what kind there are. She beams and laughs, already knowing what I was to ask. She’s very careful with her English as she tries her very best to describe to me the various types of opportunities. Nevertheless, I always pick almond (because, honestly, there’s no better kind). Oh, look! It’s already plated for me.

Beautifully tanned skin, dark long hair, and lips that curve into a smile. Her voice glazes over words in an elegant gown of profession. She has the grandest smile, one that should be displayed in the Uffizi gallery. I wonder her name, even though I frequent this small spot of delicacy. I wonder why she feels the compulsion to run around in a controlled panic. She is particular–her delicate, deft fingers pulling levers on the espresso machine like dropping pennies in a fountain. Perhaps my hidden gem is not the place itself, but the souls who run it. The girl, with hair pulled back, reminds me of me. Delicate, like a peony in the wind, dancing a silent tune. The owners, joyful and passionate, are heavily inspired by each patron–to show their appreciation and love.

Hands moving in swift movements, feet stepping over the mess spilled, voice softer than the foam on my cappuccino.

Where can I find the Caffè Rainer?

Giotto’s Farm

Posted on October 17, 2019October 21, 2019 by allison

Aged by years of manual labor, yet gentle and kind, both Giotto and his farm make it in as the humblest of these hidden gems.

Empty clothesline’s around Giotto’s back porch make the farm more than just another “excursion” for us, but a home.

Ok, so not Old McDonald’s, but what’s the hype?

At first glance, Giotto’s Farm strikes no comparison to the old and familiar that are farms back home. Instead of the idealistic “red barn” and cotton-ball sheep dotting an open field, guests are greeted by a simple Italian home–scattered with chickens and ducks throughout overgrown yard. Quite significant in size for being in such close proximity to Florence, Giotto’s land is decorated with olive trees and wandering vines–reflecting all shades of greens and yellows. The man himself expresses just as gentle and organic nature as his surroundings, painting a pure picture of authenticity. Giotto’s Farm definitely sits outside the realm of glitz and glam, but what it lacks in societal sparkle it offers tenfold in character and soul.

Giotto’s helper encouraging us with lots of wags and kisses

Beyond the lay of the land, what’s the attraction?

It would be beyond easy to enjoy a day under Giotto’s olive trees, picnicking while learning about the land and craft of farming from the man himself–kittens weaving around your arms and lap. During my visit our group enjoyed a little over an hour near the end of the activity sitting and playing with those of the animals that were curious about us in return! However the basket weaving activity is what makes this venue the gem that it is. Learning the art of wicker basket weaving from Giotto and several other weavers provides more than an aesthetic or “artsy” fix, but allows you to join in on a long passed down tradition and art. My group in specific came from south-eastern United States, and wicker (but primarily sweet grass) baskets adorn streets and homes daily. Being able to not only see, but participate in, the craft created a sense of home in the far away city of Florence.

What if you aren’t a weaver?

A kind weaver lending me a very appreicated helping hand on my work.

Rest assured, I promise Giotto’s basket weaving is a great deal easier than Underwater Basket Weaving at stay-away summer camp! Although sitting in front of a ready basket base and a pile of soaked bamboo twigs may be daunting at first, the weaver’s seem to transfer their confidence and skill as their hands lead learners on each beginning technique. Each weaver guides to the best of their ability, often helping quicken the process along by trimming sharp ends or tucking twigs for both security and visual presentation. Although the language barrier of Italian to English (and visa versa) made directions a little difficult at first, trust quickly formed between the weavers sharing their craft and visitors having a personal project they are invested in. It provided a sense of security knowing that they would not let you leave with a work you were less than proud of!

Who does this attract?

All ages are represented through this activity at Giotto’s Farm. Young learning from old, and old learning from young, an exclusive audience arguably does not exist. With as timeless and long standing of a tradition as Basket Weaving is, it servers to intertwine generations and demographics. Having made something contributing to that history that yet still can be used at home (because yes! Baskets are take home!) fosters a productive and positive feeling worth smiling about on the journey back into Florence. At least, I definitely felt that way when I was able to place my keepsakes in my very own basket at the end of the day!

“…beautiful things don’t ask for attention”

**Address concealed for discretion; contact myself at allisonmm@g.cofc.edu for Giotto’s information**

Melrose

Posted on October 17, 2019November 11, 2019 by nichols

“It’s no use going back to yesterday, because I was a different person then.” – Lewis Carroll

I’ve found that a lot of my time spent abroad has been wandering by myself. I put my headphones in, shoulder my bag, and start weaving my way through the people and streets. Most of the time I have no idea where I’m going, and I think that’s the best mode of self-discovery. You learn the places you prefer to be and the thoughts you always find yourself thinking. Your mind seems to follow your body with its wandering. On one of these drifting adventures I uncovered my gem. I stepped through a green doorway and felt transported. Inside, the colors seemed brighter and I had the urge to take out my headphones to see if the sounds were different too. The sign above the door told me I had arrived at Melrose, but the clothing on display made me feel like I had stepped outside of time. Apparently, I needed an escape from reality because my feet had led me to a time warp.

Where is Melrose?

Her dress pops against my black sweater, that could be you.

If you follow a brick lined street that winds away from the famous Florentine Duomo you’ll be there in minutes. I slowed down in front of Melrose a lot before I happened to actually go in. It seemed to always pop up on my walk home after class, growing with each pass until I could no longer ignore it. I thought it was destiny, but really I just take the same route home every day. Something I’ve been told many times to stop doing. If you’re more adventurous than me and wander more, or if you just don’t believe in being guided solely by fate, you can spot the store easily by its mannequins standing guard outside. The four plastic people are missing noses and wearing wigs and you can’t miss them. Each one stands proud in bright colors, like neon arrows flashing in between the crowds of passerby in neutrals. If you, like me, are tired of forcing yourself to fit into the morbid parade, dive in towards the wild polka dots. This rabbit hole is as comforting as it is strange.

What is this Place?

A Vintage Store

Can you imagine draping these over your shoulders? The sophistication.

Melrose is a jumbled collection of vintage clothing and accessories that are yours for the taking. Online it’s style has been described as edgy-western. I think it’s more. The clothing here has personality, and I wade through decades as I wander. I took two steps in and a rack of sequined sleeves brushed my left hand, the sunlight off their reflective circles winking at me. In the back by the dressing rooms I spun around in a fringed leather jacket. The strips of black swung across my back and wrapped around my arms like it was alive on top of me. When I left my bag held a coiled up rainbow dirndl. So take your expectations of shopping and raise them.

How much money am I dropping here?

…a bit

I’m picturing these beneath a cuffed slack? Or with tights and a jumper? Really you can’t go wrong.

It’s hard to say what you are going to be spending here. I found that the clothes were whispering to me when I drifted past them, it was their choice how many euros were going to be leaving my wallet, and I had no choice in the matter. The coats called out to me like that one wand in the hands of Harry Potter. He probably didn’t want a twin wand to the evilest man in the world, and yet the moment he held it in his fingers music sang, wind blew, and light shined upon his forehead.

The majestic coat I visit to try on and say hello to.

That’s exactly what happened to me when I tried on one fur coat. I didn’t want to need a three hundred euro coat, but I did. Did I buy it? Absolutely not, I’m not rich. I was sad, but more so because I felt like I’d been deceived. You’d think that money wouldn’t exist here. I mean if time stands still, money should lose its meaning too, right? Sadly, each item is tagged with prices typed out in calligraphy. The curling edges of the numbers are pretty, but they don’t make up for the fact that this vintage store is pretty expensive. For reference, I spent 140 euros on a velvet 60’s blazer that physically refused to let go of my shoulders. The designer ties that keep telling me they’d be a great gift for my brother vary from 35 to 70 euros.The never ending shelves of leather dress shoes are tagged from 70 to 150. If you want a more substantial answer concerning cash, which you probably do, I would say that Melrose is pricey but worth it.

Whenever I make my walk by out of the green archway my steps are hesitant. I want to stay to hear the secrets from every single piece in the store. The gauzy shirts are telling me about the time they were sprawled under the sun on grassy fields in the seventies. The felted fedoras smell like history, and told me they sat on the head of a journalist who wrote for a newspaper. I know there’s more people to learn about. More people I can pretend to be when I try on them on. This place is where you would go if you want to be a new person. Or finally become the person you’ve always meant to be. Since self-discovery is something that’s always talked about with time abroad, I think this is a good spot to visit on your journey. Find out which clothes are calling to you. Put them on, look in the mirror and see who you become. You might be surprised by the reflection.

Via dei Ginori, 18r, Italy

La Cova- Tapas Bar

Posted on October 16, 2019November 8, 2019 by hilbert

Are you tired of the traditional Italian cuisine?

*The small charming bar area where you can order drinks & small appetizers.*

I never anticipated the day would arrive when I grew weary of pizza and pasta. Don’t get me wrong- I wouldn’t have studied abroad in Florence if I didn’t love Italian food. I ate pasta and pizza almost every day for lunch and dinner, and pastries for breakfast. About half-way through my abroad journey, I began to yearn for some contrasting flavors. I could not believe I was actually getting sick of the local cuisine. After living off of this delicious yet limited diet, I began to long for some variety. I dreamt about other food types, from sodium-filled Chinese sesame chicken to a classic American burger, to… ahh yes- Spanish food! I stumbled upon La Cova Tapas Bar, located near Palazzo Pitti, on a late afternoon in Florence. This restaurant offers a flavorsome alternative to the Italian cuisine. La Cova’s menu includes tapas of all varieties, from traditional to fusion, while remaining at a low budget. Their wine selection is imported directly from the Iberian Peninsula, making a refreshing change from the Tuscan norm. Give your tastebuds a break from Italian cuisine and enter a new realm of mouth-watering flavors at La Cova. This unique Spanish bar offers far more than meets the eye—beyond the somewhat cramped yet very quaint entrance, inside there is a whole other room that will leave you pleasantly surprised…

Sharing is caring?

When it comes to Spanish cuisine, the amount of choices can be overwhelming. However, at La Cova, the portions are much smaller. These small-bite tapas dishes are meant to be shared in a family-style manner. With such a wide variety of small plates, you will be able to try lots of new things without spending an astronomical amount of money. Whether you are looking for a small appetizer with a drink or a filling dinner, La Cova will not disappoint. So, what should you order?

What are some classic dishes of the Spanish tradition?

*Our 1st round of dishes: Patatas Bravas, Queso, Calamari Frito, and Sangria!!)*

There is a wide array of dishes when it comes to Spanish food, and La Cova successfully delivers a sense of authenticity to each of their dishes. One dish in particular that I thoroughly enjoy are croquetas de jamón(croquettes with ham). These are essentially deep-fried balls of delectable goodness that are simply irresistible! Some other dishes from the menu include Bacalao a la Miel (Cod-fish), and Pincho Moruno de Pollo (Spanish-style chicken skewers). As for dessert, a Spanish go-to is crema catalana, which is the Spanish equivalent to a créme brûlée. All of these dishes will make your face a little rounder and your heart a little bigger!

Personal pitcher of Sangria? Say less!

No Spanish meal is complete without a little (or a lot) of Sangria. The drink itself is so lovable for many reasons. At La Cova, this drink is visually pleasing- the chunks of fruit are submerged in the deep maroon wine, accompanied with a wooden spoon to act as a stirrer. About seven euros for a personal pitcher, this typical Spanish beverage is more than refreshing; the tart flavors are tempered by its sweetness, giving it a complex, exhilarating taste. Whether you accompany it with a light appetizer or a hearty feast, this beverage will be the perfect compliment to your culinary experience. The menu even had more than one flavor of Sangria to choose from, and each one contained a mixture of brightly colored apples and oranges. It’s technically healthy since you’re eating fruit…right?

So, why should you come to La Cova?

*Assortment of cute plants & flowers by the seating areas*

As cute and cozy as ever, this room is carefully decorated with colorful flowers and eclectic items. The wooden chairs and tables are of different shapes and colors, adding a vibrant yet rustic charm that makes you forget that you’re in Italy! With such a wide variety of tapas, from dishes like patatas bravas (fried potato served with aioli sauce and salsa brava), to melt in your mouth croquettes, you (and your tastebuds) will not be disappointed. This restaurant is perfect for an informal evening with friends, especially on weekend nights where there is live music!

Where can I find La Cova?

Caffè Rosanò

Posted on October 16, 2019November 8, 2019 by jarck

*My usual order: medium cappuccino with soy milk*

In need of a large coffee?

Have you ever seen a cappuccino the size of a human head? Think I’m kidding? I’m not. I promise you will not find a Starbucks venti sized coffee anywhere in Florence, but these cappuccinos come pretty close. It must be an Italian thing where they believe everyone should just gulp down an espresso rather than indulge in an oversized coffee like Americans do. At Caffè Rosanò they serve everything from cappuccinos, to americanos to lattes ranging in sizes from small, medium, large and extra-large. The larges are carefully crafted cups of white, frothy, goodness poured over layers of thick, bitter espresso into salad like bowls. I have not had the courage to order an extra-large for I fear that my stomach would not be able to handle such a size, but I urge you to try it. Pro tip: smile extra big and they might just drizzle it with warm chocolate and powder it with cinnamon.

Dairy intolerant?

It is a struggle for us non-dairy folks here in Italy. The gelato, the thick blocks of cheese in every corner window, the soft dollops of mozzarella on margarita pizzas, it is hard to resist. Trust me, I get it. Thankfully, at Caffè Rosanò they have the option of substituting soy milk in any coffee drink instead of regular milk. Hooray for no more stomach aches! Along with that they also have vegan, vegetarian and gluten free options. A healthy alternative to the typical Italian cuisine of pizza, pasta and bread. Because although all those carbs can be so delicious, there comes a time that you will do almost anything for a healthy substitution, especially a dairy free one.

Who doesn’t love a free croissant or chocolate to go?

The customer service here is unmatched. Bright, cheery faces, and “Ciaos” all around. As you walk in the dark, wooden entryway, the smell of oven baked croissants and freshly brewed coffee wafts around the small dining area, like a breath of fresh air. And if you go as often as I do, they will soon learn your name and order, so it is quite fast and easy pick me up, especially if you’re late to class. I would not recommend going any later than noon or you will find an empty display of where the croissants used to lay, an unfortunate sight to see. As a way of maintaining the influx of customers, they truly value you as one of their own, even if you are American. Mauro, the owner, always treats his guests to a free croissant or miniature chocolate bar as a thank you. That is a reason to go in all in itself!

Searching for a substantial breakfast?

What better way to cure a morning after the Italian nightlife than a nice thick, sesame bagel and a vegan cappuccino. Bagels in Florence, as I have found, are hard to come by. Here at Caffè Rosanò they have the most delicious New York style bagel, smeared with delicate cream cheese, fresh avocado and savory smoked salmon. Try pairing it with a chocolate cappuccino to experience the sweet and savory flavors all in one. Not sold? Well, they also have several different selections of fresh omelets, crispy crêpes, warm paninis and tossed salads. The menu offers a wide variety of options to fill you up and keep you energized for the rest of the day, because you definitely will be walking, a lot.

Escape wifi!

Unfortunately, this café is not the best for homework purposes, but it is great for taking in the beautiful, cobble stoned city streets of Florence and interacting with the surrounding guests. Here you can sit inside at one of the handful of square tables, or outside, purely based on personal preference and of course the weather. The outdoor seating is limited but it is located on one of the side streets off the beaten path, away from the tourist chaos. Walk around the Duomo for five minutes and you’ll know what I mean by “tourist chaos.” Without wifi it gives off the genuine appeal of what a coffee shop should feel like; filled with chatter (both Italian and American), laughter, people reading, writing and observing. Bring a good book or a journal, like I do, and check it out for yourself. Plus, this is a great place to people watch while you sip your coffee.

Hours: Monday-Friday: 7:30-4pm

Telephone: +393381541315

Location: Via S. Gallo, 29, 50129 Firenze FI

The Unmarked Store

Posted on October 16, 2019November 12, 2019 by bullen

What is the unmarked store?

The lira, an outdated and now useless currency are repurposed to make something beautiful. Coins not used since 2002 are cleaned so Repubilca Italiano can be read clearly and made into necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. This is the life of the unmarked store in a nutshell. It is a reference back to the birth of Florence. Those who work in the store and the owner love the history of their city and see their store as a call back to simpler times. A time before the euro and even a time farther back before the lira. They have tied themselves to the antiquity of Florence and give their customers the Florentine goods we all crave. The store is an explosion of creativity on the inside, but you would not realize it just passing by it. There are no signs or information about what the store is. It is a completely unmarked store. It is a jewelry store that has a wide collection of necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings. There are also shelves of journals, some bags, and random items scattered around the store. Each artisan was picked carefully by the old woman who owns the store. They say that it is from the small artisan that Florence was born- another testament to the history of their beloved city. Following true to their love for history and tradition there is absolutely no online presence. They have no website, social media, or anything. If you look up the address of the store you will see the storefront of the unmarked store, but it has this name: Eredi di Pastacaldi Giulia. None of the workers know this name and those I have talked to have never heard of it. It just appeared. No one knows where it came from. For the workers, they just call the store by its address, but for me, it is the mysterious unmarked store.

How do I find the unmarked store?

Florence shopping abroad hand-made — Storefront of the unmarked store

I stumbled into the store on my way back from walking aimlessly around the city. It is not a hard place to stumble into. Even though the store doesn’t have a sign it is in a great location in between the Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti. If you are really making it your mission to get there then the formal address is Via de’ Guicciardini, 118R, 50125 Firenze. However, I loved walking down this street and looking into every store window until I came across their intriguing storefront. It was the start of my adventure here and with a store such as this you must find it by accident. It’s part of the experience. You are uncovering a secret and you might need to do a little digging. You are being let into the secret society of the unmarked store.

Who makes the jewelry?

All of the jewelry is made in Florence and those who make them work in the store and you can usually spot them working on their pieces as they are working the register. If you ask them they will show you where their stuff is located and will work you through the process of making their pieces. One of the artisans at the shop is Simona and she is possibly the most graceful woman I have ever met. She does a lot of different pieces. Simona loves what she does because everything is hand made and original. She says that sometimes people will come in and want two of the same thing, but it is almost impossible because no matter what, it will always be slightly different. Everything is a creation of its own and you can be ensured that what you buy will be one-of-a-kind. Her pieces are mostly made out of recycled pieces like old zippers or lira. She loves making new uses out of old items. Simona is also up for making anything. One woman came in and was interested in the Lira jewelry she makes, but wanted it to be gold. Simona explained to me that the coins were not historically in that color, but she was happy to work on it and make it happen for the woman. The lady came in again after the next few days to pick up her dyed Lira necklace and earrings. Simona was so proud that she could help the woman create what she wanted. If you walk in and she is working, the rest of your day will be spent with a smile on your face. She says she does not speak English well, but it is absolutely flawless and if you want to practice your Italian she will help you along and she won’t make you feel embarrassed. Even though the unmarked store does not have a name or a website you can find Simona’s work online. If you look up Comespora it can be found on Facebook, Instagram, and Etsy. She did warn me that it takes her longer to do anything online than it does to complete one piece of jewelry, but you should definitely check out her work.

What kind of jewelry can I find there?

This place is eclectic and has so many different styles. There are pieces made out of zippers and fabrics, some just made out of buttons, some are random things found throughout the city, and they also have cameos which are pendants made out of a carved shell. There is even a section where everything is made out of up-cycled technology. You can tell each maker’s personality as you drift to different parts of the store and discover what they make. If you are looking for a wild statement piece or a casual fleur-de-lis to signify your time in Florence you will have a successful trip to this shop.

What is the quality of the jewelry?

This is purely costume jewelry. I purchased a cameo of the goddess flora necklace for 26 euros. It is said to bring me good fortune. The pendant is beautiful, but the chain is magnetic. I had asked one of the workers if she had made it and she had not, but she told me that it truly was made out of a shell. I like to believe her, but walking on the Ponte Vecchio and seeing the prices for some of the cameos does make one a little suspicious. However, at the end of the day, I don’t really care. I love the necklace. I had looked up to see how to tell if a cameo is authentic and it involved purchasing a magnifying glass and examining it and I realized it didn’t really matter. No one is coming that close to my neck to decide if my pendant is real. I have visited the store a few times and have yet to meet the man who makes the cameos for the store.

Who Is The Owner?

I would love to tell you, but I truly do not know. Part of me loves this eerie mystery, but at the end of the day, I need to solve it. Also, if you ever find out who or what Pastacaldi Giulia is please let me know.

Books handmade shopping Florence — Shelves of journals found at the back of the store

CofC in Florence

Month: October 2019